Anleitung zur perfekten Gelmodellage

Instructions for perfect gel modeling

Would you like gel modeling made-by-you? No time for an appointment at the nail salon or would you simply like to design your own creative nail modeling? No problem! Our instructions "The perfect gel modeling" show you step by step the way to your own gel modeling. In addition, our nail expert Martina has put together useful tips for you. Have fun designing your nails.

Prepare your workplace: UV or LED device , workplace lamp , UV gels , brushes , cellettes , files , buffers , cleaners , tips , tip glue , horse foot , nail oil , nail art such as rhinestones and the Premiumline PerfectFinish .

Preparation of fingernails

  1. Wash, dry and disinfect your hands thoroughly. Gently push back the cuticles with a horse's foot .
  2. File natural nails oval with a professional file to a maximum length of 2mm.
  3. Carefully remove the shine from the entire natural nail with a fine file . Just matt until nothing shines anymore. Do not file the natural nail surface! Be careful with new files and buffers !
  4. Thoroughly remove the filing dust with a dust brush .
    !Important!: Please stop touching your nails with your bare fingers.

    STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3
    watch a video

    Extensions with tips

  5. Now choose a suitable nail tip for each fingernail. The tip must snap into place with the contact surface and notch. The sides must line up exactly with the natural nail walls.
    !Important!: It is better to file a larger tip narrower than to select a tip that is too small.

    +++ Read our blog “How do I find the right tip size”+++
  6. Spread the tip glue over the entire contact surface of the tip . Hold the tip down so that the tip glue does not run onto the nail tip or finger. Now stick it on and make sure it clicks into place.
    so that there is no space between the natural nail and the tip and no air bubbles appear on the contact surface. Our tip glue 7.5g with brush is helpful. If necessary, remove with tip remover .
  7. Shorten the glued tips to the desired length and file them into shape.
  8. File the base of the tips flat to the natural nail. Danger! Only file the tip base, not the natural nail.
    To make work easier, we recommend our Tip Blender , which softens the tip and thus reduces filing work.
  9. Carefully matt each nail tip with a fine file until nothing shines anymore.
    Thoroughly remove the filing dust with a dust brush .

    watch a video


  10. Now apply primer sparingly only to the natural nails and make sure that no primer comes into contact with the skin. Do not touch the treated natural nails.

    Gel brush - !Important! Before first use: Gel brushes are rubberized to protect them during storage and transport. Before the first use, this binding agent should be easily washed out of the new brush with warm water. After washing, the brushes can be easily removed and returned to their original shape with your fingers or a cellette.
    watch a video
  11. First layer ( adhesive gel , 1-phase or build-up gel rose ): Work is done by hand. With the flat one
    Using a gel brush, press a small amount of gel onto the upper natural nail and, like nail polish, paint it in one stroke towards the end of the nail.
    !Important!: Do not put pressure on the brush . The gel must not run onto the nail walls or into the cuticle area. If so - remove immediately with a rosewood stick .
  12. Place your hand in the light device for 120 seconds to allow the gel to harden.
  13. Repeat points 11 and 12 on the other hand. Do not remove the sweat layer!
    !Attention!: For French tips, see the “French nails” instructions

    STEP 10 STEP 11 STEP 12-13

    Nail construction

  14. Second layer ( building or 1-phase gel ): Using a flat gel brush, apply a ball of gel to the middle of the fingernail and apply from the nail bed to the nail tip, without applying pressure to the brush. The gel must not run onto the nail walls or into the cuticle area. If so, remove immediately with a rosewood stick .
    !Important!: Gel your thumb last as the gel can run!
  15. Repeat point 14 for each nail individually and cure for 5-10 seconds in the light device .
  16. Now place your whole hand in the light for 2-3 minutes so that the gel hardens completely.
  17. Work the other hand as points 14, 15 and 16.
  18. Thoroughly wipe off the sweaty layer of fingernails with cleaner and cellulose .
    !Important!: The sweat layer must be completely removed.
  19. File the nail surfaces with a fine file to remove any unevenness. Then matt all nails with the buffer and thoroughly remove the filing dust with a dust brush .

    STEP 14 STEP 15-16 STEP 18 STEP 19

    Seal & care

  20. Third layer ( sealing gel or 1-phase gel ): Use the flat gel brush to apply gel to the nails like nail polish. Now place your whole hand in the light for 2-3 minutes so that the gel hardens completely.
    !Important!: Do not apply too thinly, otherwise the gel will not shine.
  21. Thoroughly wipe off the sweaty layer of the nails with cleaner and cellulose .
    !Important!: The sweat layer must be completely removed.
  22. Check the side walls of the nail again for gel residue and file away if necessary.
    Apply nail oil to the cuticles and massage in.
watch a video


French nails
1. Apply a thin layer of the French gel to the tip of the nail; it does not have to be opaque yet. It is best to use a second brush for the color gel to avoid traces of color in the clear gel.
2. Place your hand in the light device for 10-15 seconds so that the gel hardens.
3. Another thin layer of French gel so that it is now opaque white.
4. Place your hand in the light device for 2 minutes so that the gel hardens.
5. Do not wipe off the sweat layer. Continue with point 15.
watch a video

Natural nail - reinforcement

For nail strengthening with gel without extension, leave out points 2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

Artificial nails - filling

File the transition from the model to the natural nail flat. !Attention!: Only file the transition, not the natural nail. Then proceed as you would with natural nail reinforcement!


Participants from our nail designer Martina:

"Practice makes perfect, my first modeling wasn't perfect either."

  • Work as closely as possible according to our operating instructions 📖 and take enough time.
  • To avoid undesirable reactions and achieve optimal results, never mix materials from different manufacturers. Do not apply cream to your hands immediately before modeling.
    Make sure it is the right length.
  • Your new nails should fit your overall look and should not interfere with your work, household, hobbies or sports.
  • Avoid any contact with harsh chemicals. It is best to wear household gloves when cleaning.
  • Do not edit your artificial nails with scissors or metal files . For shortening or shaping, only use the appropriate clippers or sandblade files. Never forget to rework or “fill up” your nails in a timely manner. This is the only way to ensure optimal durability.
  • Artificial nail layers that have become detached should definitely be replaced to prevent moisture from settling underneath and nail fungus developing. To remove polish , please only use acetone-free nail polish remover . Other removers can attack the artificial nail layer.
  • Never model or paint your nails in the sun (blister formation)! Never expose opened gel cans to sunlight or place them too close to the light curing device. The gel hardens as soon as it is exposed to UV radiation. No matter whether on the nail or in the can.
  • To avoid any gel running before it hardens , you can hold each finger individually in the light curing device for a few seconds after application and then start with the next finger. Then the gel has solidified to such an extent that it no longer runs before you have finished using the last finger. It is best to model the thumb as the last finger on one hand due to its slanted position in the device.
  • If you want to remove tips , use the specially developed tip remover . To remove gel, it must be carefully filed down.
  • To prevent nail fungus , disinfect the nail thoroughly with cleaner or a disinfectant spray before use.



I applied all gel layers and cured according to the instructions. Is it still normal for the top layer to still be sticky?
Yes. After hardening, the polymerization layer remains, the so-called sweat layer. Remove these with our cleaner .

The gel lifts on the sides. What did i do wrong?
Either the gel has been modeled on or even over the cuticle. Make sure the edges are precisely finished and remove any residue with the rosewood stick before curing.
After the second layer, any excess residue should be removed from the nail fold with a file.
OR: The natural nail was not sufficiently matted, especially at the edges.
OR: The nails were still wet or greasy before modeling. Make sure that the nail plate is well dried and absolutely free of grease. We recommend degreasing them with our cleaner .

I applied the gel to my natural nails. Now it's splintering off. What should I do to make the gel last better?
We recommend that you use a tip when modeling for the first time. Then gradually fill your nails with gel at shorter intervals (approx. every 14 days) until the tip has grown out. This gives you optimal hold and allows you to enjoy well-groomed nails for longer.

My artificial nails break faster than my girlfriend's. Are my natural nails even suitable for nail modeling?
In principle yes. However, during the initial treatment, the artificial nails should not protrude too long beyond the nail tip. Find your individual length that gives the nails the highest stability.

Every nail is different: Just as there are dry and oily hair, nails also have different characteristics. For adhesion problems such as nails that are very greasy, we offer you our adhesion promoter, primer. The gel layers may have been applied too thinly. When modeling, you must carefully reinforce the nail, especially at the base of the tip. Also make sure that the artificial nails come into contact with chemicals such as household cleaners or dishwashing liquid as little as possible. These attack the artificial nails and reduce their durability.

Why can you still see the tip base?
The tip transition was not filed down sufficiently. First use the coarse-grained side, then the fine-grained side and then smooth with the buffer . To make work easier, we recommend a tip blender . This softens the tip and makes it easier to file afterwards.

Shop starter set here:

Basic starter set Starter set color gel Founder set
Basic starter set Starter set color gel Startup founder set

Here to read:

download PDF

We're here for you!

If you have any questions❓ or suggestions, our customer service is available
on +49 711 342 147 0 Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. or
by email 💌 to

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Hallo ich habe zurzeit kein cleanen da mach mir meine nägel immer selber kann man auch was anderes nehmen lg.


Liebe Maria, die richtige Anwendung für UV-Nagellack findest du hier in unser Academy
Viel Spaß bei der Nagelmodellage

ND24 NailDesign Team

Hallo liebes Team, nach dem ich das aller erste Mal meine Nägel selber gemacht habe, kann ich bis auf zwei Sachen zufrieden sein. Beim nächsten Mal möchte ich UV Lack verwenden. Nun meine Frage, wie muß ich vor gehen. LG Maria


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